Search For The Answer
Click here to access our database of
Plant Answers
Search For The Picture
Click here to access the Google database of plants and insects




Milberger's Nursery and Landscaping
3920 North Loop 1604 E.
San Antonio, TX 78247
210.497.3760
nursery@milbergersa.com


Three exits east of 281, inside of 1604
Next to the Diamond Shamrock station
Please click map for more detailed map and driving directions.




Return to Gardening Columns Main Index

Questions for the Week

Slide Show

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS FOR THE THIRD WEEK OF NOVEMBER

QUESTION : Why are poinsettias being sold so early this year? They were never sold before Thanksgiving in the past.
ANSWER : It seems that poinsettias are being sold earlier and earlier in the year. Plants are ALREADY available in local nurseries. This Christmas plant is becoming a Thanksgiving plant and almost a Halloween plant!! How can we make the plants purchased early in the holiday season endure? Proper selection and follow?up care are important considerations when choosing poinsettias for the holiday season. Poinsettias are the featured plant in retail garden centers, florist shops, and grocery stores from mid?November through December, and are now available in a tremendous variety of bract colors ranging from red to white, marble, pink, and combinations of these colors. Red poinsettias represent around 90% of the market, but other colors are increasing in popularity.

Among the points to consider when purchasing poinsettia for the holidays include the size and number of the colored leaves. These are referred to as bracts. Bracts should be large and extend over the lower green leaves. The number and size of bracts usually dictate plant price. A premium quality poinsettia usually has at least six bracts and should have more. Also inspect the lower green leaves on poinsettias prior to purchase. These should have good appearance and extend over the rim of the pot. Drooping leaves may be an indication of problems. Check for insects, primarily white flies, underneath the lower leaves. The most important observation that can be made before purchasing a poinsettia is inspection of the green flower parts (cyathia) in the center of the bracts. These flower parts are an indicator of display life. Plants having large cyathia that are showing yellow pollen and sap will have the least amount of display life left, while plants with smaller cyathia, little to no pollen and no sap will have the longest display life. A poinsettia should easily last for 4?6 weeks in the home interior if proper care is provided.

To prolong the beauty and health of poinsettias once they are in the home, proper care is essential. Although poinsettias do not become acclimated to interior settings as well as most foliage plants, it is easy to be successful. First, select a location that receives some sunlight ? interior hallways are a poor location. It is also very important to avoid exposing the plant to sudden temperature changes ? this would be a problem if the poinsettia was placed near a ventilation system or in a drafty spot near a doorway. Temperatures found in most homes are acceptable. Ideally, provide 70 to 75 degree days and 62 to 65 degree nights. Watering in the keep to success. NEVER allow the soilless medium in which the plant is being grown to dry out thoroughly causing the plant to wilt. To avoid this water DAILY by adding two ice cubes DAILY to poinsettias in small pots. As the pot size increases, double the number of ice cubes evenly distributed DAILY around the surface of the pot in which the plant is growing. The ice cubes melt slowly providing uniform wetting of the planting medium. Since ice cubes are added DAILY, the medium never dries and the plant never experiences a fatal wilt and loss of leaves. Watering with ice cubes also avoids water or mist on the colored bracts. Also, adding the small amount of water contained in the ice cube avoids soaking the root system. Letting the poinsettia stand in water for more than 30 minutes to an hour can cause root damage resulting in defoliation and/or plant death.

For those who cannot part with their poinsettias after the holidays, plants can be planted outdoors in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. Cut the plant back halfway and select a sunny, well?drained location isolated from north winds and frost pockets. Poinsettias placed on the south side of the house usually will do well. Poinsettias can be kept bushy and compact when growing in the landscape or a container by pinching the top inch from new shoots when these shoots reach 5?6 inches long. These branches will then produce several laterals at each place where the pinching is done. In order for poinsettias to bloom and develop foliage color, do not pinch after late August/early September and prevent them from receiving any light during the night hours. Poinsettias need approximately 40 straight days of 13?14 hour nights in order to bloom and develop bract color. Normal accumulation of these hours will occur from about October 5 through November 15. This period of continuous darkness at night should initiate color in time for the Christmas season. Any interruption of this darkness accumulation will delay flowering. Some of the newer poinsettia varieties will color without this short,day treatment.


QUESTION : I have a pecan tree in my backyard that is about 30 feet tall and a trunk that is about 14 inches in diameter. I've noticed that the top parts of the branches have lost their leaves (this was of course earlier in the year), and the branches are brittle and break off. I would like to know if it is recommended that I trim back the tree after this years crop has fallen? If so, how much would you suggest? Also, any helpful info. on fertilizing, watering schedules, and all around general maintenance for my tree would greatly be appreciated. Also, I guess I should mention that I live in El Paso, TX.
ANSWER : It sounds like your tree is suffering from zinc rosette or deficiency. This can be corrected with foliar zinc sprays, however it can be hard to get someone who can spray the tops of the trees.

No, I would not prune the tree back. Spraying the tree with zinc would prove to be much more beneficial.

Detailed management for pecans is outlined at the following Plantanswers site:

http://aggie?horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/homefruit/pecan/pecan.html

QUESTION : I am a librarian at a middle school and, I have a question one of my science teachers asked me to research. Yes, it involves plants so I thought I might ask you or maybe you could put me in touch with someone who could. "If you put a human and a plant in a container together, how long could they exist...you know each one producing what the other one needs to exist...the oxygen and the carbon monoxide thing." This is how the student asked the question. I wonder if you know the answer.
ANSWER : It frightens me that science teachers don't know the answer to such questions. First of all, there is not a one?to?one relationship between by?products produced by plants and animals. Plants, depending on type and size, give off a certain amount of oxygen and convert a certain amount of carbon dioxide during their life cycle. You are describing a terrarium scenario which would require the estimation of life consumption and waste production of all individuals involved over a given period of time.

To answer the question: "If you put a human and a plant in a container together, how long could they exist...you know each one producing what the other one needs to exist...the oxygen and the carbon monoxide thing." the answer would be that the human would live until the available oxygen supply in the container was exhausted. After the human died and began decomposing, the waste and gases of the decomposing body would kill the plant because of toxic ammonia gases being produced by the rotting, fermenting body parts in the non?oxygen, anaerobic environment. So the time required for this to occur could range from hours to days depending on the size of the container, size of individual placed in the container and number, size, type of plants put in the container. I hope this has been helpful and informative.

RESPONSE:
Jerry, thanks for the answer, we figured there would be a lot of variables involved. The teacher just wanted to relay the question as the student asked it. Your answer is perfect. This particular student will enjoy the decomposing part. Seventh grade boys are into the decomposing bodies and the gross realities of life.

QUESTION :I HAVE SOME GRAPE VINES THAT I WANT TO PRUNE AND TRY TO ROOT THEM BECAUSE THEY ARE REALLY NICE PLANTS. I LIVE NEAR JOHNSON CITY TEXAS IF THAT HELPS. I CAN NOT FIND ANYTHING AT THE LIBRARY IN OUR SMALL TOWN. CAN YOU ADVISE ME HOW TO HELP THE CUTTINGS ROOT PROPERLY.
ANSWER :Wait until January to prune the vines. Then when you prune select long, straight shoots to make cuttings. It is best to take a 6 foot or so shoot and then start making cuttings at the base of this shoot. The cuttings have to be right side up or they will not root. The end closest to the ground always goes in the ground. The cuttings should be 12 to 18 inches long and contain 4 buds. Three of the buds should be placed under ground and the remaining one left out of the soil. You probably want to dip the end of each cutting in rooting hormone. You may have to come to San Antonio to one of the major nurseries to get some. The cuttings should be placed in the soil as soon as you prune them. That is why you want to wait until January to take the cuttings. The cuttings will callus over the remaining winter and next spring some will start growing. Keep the soil around the cuttings moist but not overly wet for the rest of the winter.