QUESTION : Why are poinsettias being sold so early
this year? They were never sold before Thanksgiving in the
past.
ANSWER : It seems that poinsettias are being sold
earlier and earlier in the year. Plants are ALREADY available
in local nurseries. This Christmas plant is becoming a Thanksgiving
plant and almost a Halloween plant!! How can we make the
plants purchased early in the holiday season endure? Proper
selection and follow?up care are important considerations
when choosing poinsettias for the holiday season. Poinsettias
are the featured plant in retail garden centers, florist
shops, and grocery stores from mid?November through December,
and are now available in a tremendous variety of bract colors
ranging from red to white, marble, pink, and combinations
of these colors. Red poinsettias represent around 90% of
the market, but other colors are increasing in popularity.
Among the points to consider when purchasing poinsettia
for the holidays include the size and number of the colored
leaves. These are referred to as bracts. Bracts should be
large and extend over the lower green leaves. The number
and size of bracts usually dictate plant price. A premium
quality poinsettia usually has at least six bracts and should
have more. Also inspect the lower green leaves on poinsettias
prior to purchase. These should have good appearance and
extend over the rim of the pot. Drooping leaves may be an
indication of problems. Check for insects, primarily white
flies, underneath the lower leaves. The most important observation
that can be made before purchasing a poinsettia is inspection
of the green flower parts (cyathia) in the center of the
bracts. These flower parts are an indicator of display life.
Plants having large cyathia that are showing yellow pollen
and sap will have the least amount of display life left,
while plants with smaller cyathia, little to no pollen and
no sap will have the longest display life. A poinsettia
should easily last for 4?6 weeks in the home interior if
proper care is provided.
To prolong the beauty and health of poinsettias once they
are in the home, proper care is essential. Although poinsettias
do not become acclimated to interior settings as well as
most foliage plants, it is easy to be successful. First,
select a location that receives some sunlight ? interior
hallways are a poor location. It is also very important
to avoid exposing the plant to sudden temperature changes
? this would be a problem if the poinsettia was placed near
a ventilation system or in a drafty spot near a doorway.
Temperatures found in most homes are acceptable. Ideally,
provide 70 to 75 degree days and 62 to 65 degree nights.
Watering in the keep to success. NEVER allow the soilless
medium in which the plant is being grown to dry out thoroughly
causing the plant to wilt. To avoid this water DAILY by
adding two ice cubes DAILY to poinsettias in small pots.
As the pot size increases, double the number of ice cubes
evenly distributed DAILY around the surface of the pot in
which the plant is growing. The ice cubes melt slowly providing
uniform wetting of the planting medium. Since ice cubes
are added DAILY, the medium never dries and the plant never
experiences a fatal wilt and loss of leaves. Watering with
ice cubes also avoids water or mist on the colored bracts.
Also, adding the small amount of water contained in the
ice cube avoids soaking the root system. Letting the poinsettia
stand in water for more than 30 minutes to an hour can cause
root damage resulting in defoliation and/or plant death.
For those who cannot part with their poinsettias after
the holidays, plants can be planted outdoors in the spring
after the danger of frost has passed. Cut the plant back
halfway and select a sunny, well?drained location isolated
from north winds and frost pockets. Poinsettias placed on
the south side of the house usually will do well. Poinsettias
can be kept bushy and compact when growing in the landscape
or a container by pinching the top inch from new shoots
when these shoots reach 5?6 inches long. These branches
will then produce several laterals at each place where the
pinching is done. In order for poinsettias to bloom and
develop foliage color, do not pinch after late August/early
September and prevent them from receiving any light during
the night hours. Poinsettias need approximately 40 straight
days of 13?14 hour nights in order to bloom and develop
bract color. Normal accumulation of these hours will occur
from about October 5 through November 15. This period of
continuous darkness at night should initiate color in time
for the Christmas season. Any interruption of this darkness
accumulation will delay flowering. Some of the newer poinsettia
varieties will color without this short,day treatment.
QUESTION : I have a pecan tree in my backyard that
is about 30 feet tall and a trunk that is about 14 inches
in diameter. I've noticed that the top parts of the branches
have lost their leaves (this was of course earlier in the
year), and the branches are brittle and break off. I would
like to know if it is recommended that I trim back the tree
after this years crop has fallen? If so, how much would
you suggest? Also, any helpful info. on fertilizing, watering
schedules, and all around general maintenance for my tree
would greatly be appreciated. Also, I guess I should mention
that I live in El Paso, TX.
ANSWER : It sounds like your tree is suffering from
zinc rosette or deficiency. This can be corrected with foliar
zinc sprays, however it can be hard to get someone who can
spray the tops of the trees.
No, I would not prune the tree back. Spraying the tree
with zinc would prove to be much more beneficial.
Detailed management for pecans is outlined at the following
Plantanswers site:
http://aggie?horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/homefruit/pecan/pecan.html
QUESTION : I am a librarian at a middle school and,
I have a question one of my science teachers asked me to
research. Yes, it involves plants so I thought I might ask
you or maybe you could put me in touch with someone who
could. "If you put a human and a plant in a container
together, how long could they exist...you know each one
producing what the other one needs to exist...the oxygen
and the carbon monoxide thing." This is how the student
asked the question. I wonder if you know the answer.
ANSWER : It frightens me that science teachers don't
know the answer to such questions. First of all, there is
not a one?to?one relationship between by?products produced
by plants and animals. Plants, depending on type and size,
give off a certain amount of oxygen and convert a certain
amount of carbon dioxide during their life cycle. You are
describing a terrarium scenario which would require the
estimation of life consumption and waste production of all
individuals involved over a given period of time.
To answer the question: "If you put a human and a
plant in a container together, how long could they exist...you
know each one producing what the other one needs to exist...the
oxygen and the carbon monoxide thing." the answer would
be that the human would live until the available oxygen
supply in the container was exhausted. After the human died
and began decomposing, the waste and gases of the decomposing
body would kill the plant because of toxic ammonia gases
being produced by the rotting, fermenting body parts in
the non?oxygen, anaerobic environment. So the time required
for this to occur could range from hours to days depending
on the size of the container, size of individual placed
in the container and number, size, type of plants put in
the container. I hope this has been helpful and informative.
RESPONSE:
Jerry, thanks for the answer, we figured there would be
a lot of variables involved. The teacher just wanted to
relay the question as the student asked it. Your answer
is perfect. This particular student will enjoy the decomposing
part. Seventh grade boys are into the decomposing bodies
and the gross realities of life.
QUESTION :I HAVE SOME GRAPE VINES THAT I WANT TO
PRUNE AND TRY TO ROOT THEM BECAUSE THEY ARE REALLY NICE
PLANTS. I LIVE NEAR JOHNSON CITY TEXAS IF THAT HELPS. I
CAN NOT FIND ANYTHING AT THE LIBRARY IN OUR SMALL TOWN.
CAN YOU ADVISE ME HOW TO HELP THE CUTTINGS ROOT PROPERLY.
ANSWER :Wait until January to prune the vines. Then
when you prune select long, straight shoots to make cuttings.
It is best to take a 6 foot or so shoot and then start making
cuttings at the base of this shoot. The cuttings have to
be right side up or they will not root. The end closest
to the ground always goes in the ground. The cuttings should
be 12 to 18 inches long and contain 4 buds. Three of the
buds should be placed under ground and the remaining one
left out of the soil. You probably want to dip the end of
each cutting in rooting hormone. You may have to come to
San Antonio to one of the major nurseries to get some. The
cuttings should be placed in the soil as soon as you prune
them. That is why you want to wait until January to take
the cuttings. The cuttings will callus over the remaining
winter and next spring some will start growing. Keep the
soil around the cuttings moist but not overly wet for the
rest of the winter.