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Weekly Express-News Article With our long growing season and generally warm weather
we grow a number of tropical and subtropical plants that require protection
from the cold. The most cold-sensitive plants such as bougainvillea,
oriental hibiscus, plumeria, pentas, mandevillas, and other tropical plants
should be safety sheltered in a greenhouse, sun porch or other location that
stays well above freezing. Plumeria and
bougainvillea do not need light during the winter storage period. Most other tropical plants do if they are
going to survive the winter. The second level of cold-sensitivity includes plants like
citrus and geraniums that can tolerate temperatures that fall below freezing
for short periods of time and survive more severe cold if they receive some
protection. Sheets, blankets, and even agricultural fabric will add
four – six degrees protection. Enclose
the plant in a plastic tent and even more protection is afforded as long as the
plastic does not touch the plants.
Plastic without an air space or fabric for insulation between it and the
plant is not useful as protection.
Another concern, the air in the plastic tent will heat up very quickly
if the sun comes out after the cold spell.
It is not unusual for plants to fry in such a tent if it remains in
place when the sun arrives. A heating source placed under the plastic tent or fabric
adds several more degrees of protection and keeps the shelter warm if the cold
spell lasts for more than a few hours at night.
Christmas tree lights, a mechanic’s light, or a poultry warmer work
well. Tomatoes cannot tolerate freezing temperatures without protection. For the first light freeze the protection of agricultural fabric or sheets is all that is required to give you three or four more weeks of ripening time. Just to hedge your bets, collect all the full size fruit that is showing any color change (off white or orange) before the freeze arrives. The broccoli, cabbage, carrots, spinach, and onions
should survive the cold spells without much trouble. Mustard, beets, and even English peas can
experience top kill or at least leaf burn.
To maximize cold tolerance, every plant should be irrigated as soon as
the soil dries to one inch. Watering
just before the freeze is not usually effective. The plant must have the water integrated into
its structure for it to be useful. The misconception that watering just before a freeze helps
plants survive the cold comes from commercial strawberry and fruit orchards
where they water all during the freeze.
As water freezes it releases latent heat which keeps the plants at or
near 32° F. Unfortunately, a few drops
of water before the cold temperatures arrive do not offer any protection. The cool weather flowers also have varying degrees of
cold tolerance. Pansies generally bloom all winter even when we have freezes.
Petunias, snapdragons, stocks, and calendula may stop blooming during the
coldest weather in December and January.
They resume blooming sometime in February. In the shade, cyclamen seems to have the same
cold-tolerance as pansies, but part of that tolerance is more likely because
cyclamen is usually planted in sheltered locations in deep shade. Primulas and begonias may also bloom all
winter, but seem to have less cold-tolerance than cyclamen and pansies. The lawn is also sensitive to extreme cold. The grass has more cold-tolerance if it was
fertilized in the fall and if it did not dry out severely before the cold
arrived. Most shrubs, trees, and perennials can be treated as the
dormant lawn. The exception is plants
that are actively growing. Last year
most Texas Gold columbines died in the extreme winter drought due to lack of
water. Water actively growing plants
when the soil dries to one inch.
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