PERSIMMONS FOR FALL

Many people want to plant a fruit tree that is easy to maintain yet which produces a good-tasting, nutritious fruit. In Texas, because of the abundance of pests and pestilence which enjoy fruit as much as we do, there are few fruiting plants that can make the claim of being carefree and productive. The persimmon is definitely a candidate for this category.

Now WAIT A MINUTE! I know I said persimmon and I KNOW that all that most of you who have eaten wild persimmon can think of is pucker-spit?and-cuss. I've been down that trail myself and I know the "qualities" of a wild persimmon. Don't "throw the baby out with the bath water" just because you haven't tasted a good persimmon. I speak with the voice of experience--it took several years before anyone could convince me to even taste one of the cultivated persimmons. Now I am a believer in this tasty fruit--a born-again persimmon partaker.

Of course, it took the foreigners to "show us the light". The Oriental persimmon is native to China and has been grown and selected in China, Korea, and Japan for more than 1000 years. There, it is considered as a favored food-producing ornamental and orchard crop. There are over 1000 named cultivars, and Japan alone has more than 73,000 acres producing over 250,000 tons of fruit each year. Individual trees can live up to 100 years and produce up to 400 pounds of fruit per year. Persimmons are a staple food in the Orient. The Oriental persimmon is closely related to other persimmons, which include the date, the Texas persimmon and the American persimmon. Found throughout the U.S., from Connecticut to Texas, the native persimmon's fruit is small, seedy, and extremely astringent. Until they are fully ripe--these are the persimmons which have puckered possum lips and rolled Tennessee hillbillies in the dirt (after being overcome with green persimmon puckerdom) for decades.

There are 200 species in the persimmon genus Diospyros. "Dios" means God and "pyros" means food, thus the name means "food of the Gods." Obviously, the person who gave this name to the persimmon genus had confined his eating experience to the oriental types--some of the wild ones are so puckering that only "the Gods" could live through the experience of eating one! In addition to the persimmon's fruit production, the wood in some species is especially hard and used for making golf clubs and ebony.

Commodore Perry brought Oriental persimmons to the U.S. from Japan in 1856. Large numbers of the trees were planted in California and the Southeast during the 1930's. Almost all of the persimmon fruit sold in America today is grown in California, where there are only about 700 acres in production, with average yields of 5 tons per acre.

The Oriental persimmon has a diversely shaped fruit, coming in rounded, conical, square, or lobed shapes which are a beautiful yellow to orange or deep red color when ripe. They can weigh up to one pound each. The trees, depending on variety, are small-- usually no more than 20 to 30 feet tall, with a rounded crown and large, lustrous, dark green leaves. The best varieties for this area are Eureka, Tane-Nashi, Hachiya, Fuji and Tamopan. In autumn, the leaves often turn a bright crimson, and with the orange fruit on the tree, is a beautiful sight. In the Orient, the fruit is often left to freeze on the tree, and then picked and eaten like popsicles all winter!

Oriental persimmons can be divided into 2 classes, astringent and non-astringent (that's puckering and non-puckering for us wild persimmon eaters). Astringent varieties gain their astringency from soluble tannins that disappear as the fruit ripens and softens. Non-astringent persimmons, however, can be eaten when still firm, without any astringency whatsoever. Some varieties are astringent if the fruit is not pollinated (parthenocarpic development) and are non-astringent if seeded.

Fruit-drop during the first 5 years of a persimmon's tree life is a common complaint. Fruit drop is caused by excessive vegetative growth. Persimmons do not need large amounts of fertilizer. Too much fertilization coupled with optimum soil moisture can produce excess growth, as can too much pruning, thus causing more fruit drop than in a slower growing tree. Young trees drop fruit more, especially under stress, than older trees. Cutting back on pruning and nitrogen can reduce this growth and thus reduce fruit drop.

Persimmons generally ripen from late August until early December. Persimmons are harvested by clipping, leaving the calyx and a short piece of the stem attached to the fruit. Fruit is picked when it has attained the proper color, but is still firm. If picked before fully colored, the fruit will often ripen poorly or unevenly, and be harder to market. Careful handling is very important to minimize bruising (bruising causes brown spots on the fruit). Fruit may be ripened in a warm environment (60 to 70 degrees F.) for 1 to 3 weeks. Fruit may be stored at 32 to 34 degrees F. to extend the storage period for 1 to 4 months.

Persimmons are delicious whether eaten fresh, dried, or cooked. As a fresh fruit, they are unsurpassed. The taste of a fully ripe persimmon is superb, incomparable to any other fruit. Persimmons can be used fresh in salads, appetizers, or as a dessert or topping, chilled or frozen. They are excellent in ice cream, with yogurt, or in smoothies. Cooked or baked, they are delicious in cakes, breads, puddings, cookies, cobblers, pies, and pastries. Persimmons also make wonderful preserves and jams.

Freezing is a popular method of preserving persimmons. They can be peeled before freezing, then frozen in plastic containers either whole or pureed. Drying is the other principal method of storage. Persimmon pulp may also be spread on foil in a flat pan and dried into jerky. During drying, sugar crystals form over the surface of the fruit, creating an appealing product. Dried persimmons are high in dextrose and similar to dried peaches in food value.

The oriental persimmon is Texas' most underrated, carefree fruits. The fruit will be noticeable on defoliating trees from now until Thanksgiving--the trees, laden with colorful fruit, could be considered a Nature's primer on ornamental trees of the fall. Try a fully ripened fruit and experience the "food of the Gods"--you don't know what you're missing. You may decide to plant a tree in your yard this fall--there are still some available in local nurseries and fall IS the best time to plant.

For more information about persimmons, see:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/fruit/persimmons
persimmons.html

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS FOR
SECOND WEEK OF SEPTEMBER 2002

QUESTION: I have a bald cypress tree approximately 15-feet tall with a diameter trunk 4-inches in diameter. The tree experienced good growth the last 2 years and is planted in Central Texas limestone soil. This season, the tree's leaves never became green. The foliage appears normal but the yellow color has continued throughout the season and now the leaves at the top of the tree are turning brown. I've fertilized the tree with plugs and applied an iron drench around the tree and a separate application to the leaves during the season but to no avail. I see no evidence of insects on the leaves or trunk. There are 2 or 3 green, ball-like growths about 6 inches from the top of the tree, but for some reason I've assumed these were normal structural attributes. Any suggestions?

ANSWER: Ball Cypress has a tendency to show severe symptoms of iron chlorosis in high pH alkaline planting site. The tree may get better as it ages -- if it lives that long. You would have had better luck with a Montezuma Cypress, but what is done is done. I would keep a 3 to 4-inch mulch around the tree at least 6 to 8 feet from trunk to dripline, and add iron sulfate (Copperas) directly to the mulch around the tree several times a year. The iron will adhere to the mulch and as the mulch slowly decomposes, it will provide a chelated or slow-release iron feeding to the tree. Keep the tree as moist as possible -- the thick mulch will help.

QUESTION: Can you help me? We have 4 healthy Bradford pear trees in our front yard. Do these need to be topped or trimmed? Our local nurseries have given us conflicting information. Can you advise me on how to proceed? We live in Southern Missouri.

ANSWER: ABSOLUTELY DO NOT TOP OR TRIM!!! The natural shape of a Bradford pear tree is why you plant the tree in the first place. You can thin some branches in early spring if the branches are rubbing or diseased, but otherwise, leave it alone and enjoy the beauty of spring bloom and fall leaf color. It is one of the greatest, most widely-planted trees in the world.

QUESTION: I have a few questions about how to care for Bermuda grass. After all the rains we had in the spring, my Bermuda was overrun with weeds. I was able to control some of the weeds, but the Bermuda never came in strong enough to choke out the rest. Is there anything I can do this fall to try and eliminate more weeds and improve the health of the Bermuda?

ANSWER: The products MSMA or DSMA will kill ALL weeds in Bermuda without damaging the Bermuda. Read and follow label instructions.

Here are more questions about Bermuda:

When is a good time of year to de-thatch the Bermuda?

In early spring (March - April)

When is a good time of year to aerate?

ANYTIME and OFTEN!!

What type of fertilizer should I use as fall approaches?

Use a Winterizer (will be written on bag!) fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio.

Any good suggestions for grass that will grow in medium to full shade?

ONLY St. Augustine will tolerate partial to full shade. Zoysia will tolerate partial shade. See the information on recommended grasses in the PLANTanswers publication entitled "97 Promotions for South Central Texas"

Is there a good weed and feed product that I can use to avoid the attack of weeds next spring, and when should I apply it to the lawn?

ANSWER: NEVER use Weed-and-Feed fertilizers!!!!!!! Use a slow-release formulation of fertilizer such as 19-5-9 after the Bermuda begins to green in April. You can use a pre-emergence herbicide in early spring (February) such as Balan, Betasan or Amaze to prevent weed germination in sparse turf. If you fertilize Bermuda monthly and water properly, NOTHING can compete with it.

QUESTION: How can I propagate crape myrtles? Can I root cuttings? I have one in my yard that I like, and want more like it.

ANSWER: Crape myrtles are propagated by rooting green wood or new growth cuttings as per PLANTanswers instructions at this site:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/misc/asexualpropagtion.html

Best results are obtained when a mist propagation bench is used since the leaf surface of cuttings should be kept moist during the rooting period. For that reason, most of us are better off purchasing a rooted cutting of the variety of crape myrtle we like. Take a flower stalk from the crape myrtle to a knowledgeable nurseryman and describe the height and age of your specimen. I would imagine he can tell you what variety you have.

QUESTION: This year the fire ants finally found my raised vegetable beds. They have not caused too many problems, but they did seem to nibble on my potatoes. They were also a problem when it came time to harvest. I rarely use insecticides because of the lizards and other beneficials. I am hoping someone might have a suggestion on getting the fire ants out of the beds with the least amount of pesticides. I used Neem-a-Way on my aphids, and the fire ants didn't seem to like it, but that doesn't get to them under ground. I use diazinon granules around the house, but I couldn't find any informatin on the bag regarding vegetable beds.

ANSWER: I would recommend you use the Amdro bait around the landscape and apply according to label instructions -- that is, sparsely. Do not use directly in the vegetable garden but only around the outside. The ants, wherever they are, will come and get the granules of Amdro and take it back to the mound and to the queen(s). This should eliminate the mounds without damaging lizards or any other lovely living things. Diazinon granules can be used in the garden for the control of wireworms and the like, but unfortunately, you need to find the main mound of the fire ants and kill it and its queen to eliminate the problem.

QUESTION: My next door neighbor (a good friend and excellent neighbor) has a 17-year old patch of bamboo planted along our property lines. We live in Nashville, Tennessee. I do not know the type of bamboo, but it easily reaches 20 feet tall. In the past several years, the bamboo has been migrating east into a small walking space along my garage. In addition, much of the bamboo was bending over the fence onto the garage roof and restricted access to that area of my lot. I asked the neighbor's permission to prune the bamboo so that it would not lean over the garage. This week (the first of September) I pruned most of the bamboo to about 6 feet. The neighbor was out of town and now is very, very angry with me for butchering his bamboo. Perhaps I should have asked you this question before pruning. However, all I want to know now is whether the bamboo will return to full growth next spring, or does it need to be cut to the ground?

I know you are not in the business of handling disputes between neighbors, but I want to do the right thing. If I have done something terribly wrong, I want to correct it and need your guidance in the proper pruning of bamboo. I will deeply appreciate your help. I do not want to lose a good friend/neighbor because of bamboo.

ANSWER: If you have a neighbor who planted bamboo (or as we refer to it -- DAMNboo!!) and has not been committed to the nearest psychiatric or penal institution, you should be alarmed!! There is no way to stop bamboo from spreading. The only way to get rid of it is MOVE! Deep (3 to 6 feet) impermeable barriers of metal or thick concrete is the ONLY way to keep it from coming into, and taking over, your territory. I am amazed that your neighbors claim to have planted the nasty stuff -- I have never had ANYONE claim to have planted it -- they always say it was there when they came. Bamboo SHOULD NEVER BE PLANTED IN THE U.S.!!!!! It is too uncontrollable. The zoo horticulturists planted some in concrete containers to put in the animal cages thinking the animals would kill it and it could not escape. The bamboo cracked the concrete containers, established a root system in the cracks in the animal cages and the zoo is now wondering what to do with the animals -- THE BAMBOO HAS TAKEN THE CAGES!!!!

I HOPE that I am not understanding your question correctly: Are you being accused of "butchering" bamboo?!? Are you seriously asking me "is whether the bamboo will return to full growth next spring, or does it need to be cut to the ground"?!?! You could have pruned that bamboo with a bulldozer and it "will return to full growth next spring" and MORE!! The stalks you cut back may sprout near the points of cutback --if you want a straight, long cane, you should completely remove the trimmed-back canes. You should also begin construction of your bamboo underground restraining wall. I would also re-evaluate your relationship with your neighbors. Anyone who knowingly plants bamboo is capable of any type of behavior from mass murder on up.

I am afraid your statement of " I do not want to lose a good friend/neighbor because of bamboo" is too late; I know of numerous friend/neighbor relationships that have been destroyed because of bamboo, and those friend/neighbors DIDN'T EVEN ADMIT TO PLANTING THE NASTY STUFF -- they just couldn't keep it in their own back yard!!!

More on bamboo at PLANTanswers site:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/trees/bamboo.html

Here is the response we received to the above bamboo answer:

Thank you very much for your prompt reply. No, my neighbor actually did not plant the bamboo. A previous owner planted the stuff about 17 years ago, but I have not had to battle the stuff until the last 3 or 4 years when it started migrating east onto my property.

QUESTION: I hope you can settle an argument for me. I have some questions about leaves turning colors. I say that the leaves turn colors because of the temperature, and that the tree cannot survive if it continues photosynthesis. My cohort says that the reason they turn is the tree realizes that the daylight hour is becoming shorter and turning dormant.

We have come up with this procedure as a mock experiment. Take a maple tree, and place it in a refrigerator. Give it the equivalent of a summer day, but at the same time, begin dropping the temperature in the reefer. Would the leaves turn color?? Or would they just die from exposure???

ANSWER: THIS IS NOT A GOOD EXPERIMENT!!! You would NEVER live to see the completion of such an experiment before your wife or significant other would KILL YOU for putting a tree in the refrigerator!!! Besides, where would you chill the beer!?!?! I want you to send me your boss's e-mail address so I can inform him to either increase your work load or begin commitment procedures immediately!!!!!

Please see the information at:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/trees/leafcolor.html

QUESTION: Will the weather affect what little fall color the local trees display? My family is from New England and we severely miss fall color of trees.

ANSWER: Forget ever having anything close to the fall color of New England in Texas! Trees change colors according to complex chemical formulas. Depending on how much iron, magnesium, phosphorus or sodium is in the tree, and the acidity of the chemicals in the leaves, the trees might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumacs, for instance, have a slightly acidic sap which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The leaves of some varieties of ash, growing in areas where limestone is present, will turn a regal purplish-blue.

What prompts the change? Although many people believe that a mischievous Jack Frost is responsible for the color change, the weather has nothing to do with it at all. As the days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf. As autumn progresses, the sap flow slows and chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the leaves their green color in the spring and summer, disappears. The residual sap becomes more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.

As the leaves die and fall to earth, the forest begins a winter-long slumber. The leaves, which through the warmer months convert carbon dioxide to oxygen, now take up another task, enriching the soil and providing nutrients for future generations of trees. And by the time this year's leaves fall, next spring's leaves are tightly wrapped in buds ready to unravel in the soft colors of spring.

QUESTION: With the price of coffee and tobacco being what they are these days, I was wondering why these aren't grown as a garden crop?

ANSWER: Coffee comes from a tropical, tender-to-cold shrub that cannot be grown in Texas. Tobacco plants can be grown in Texas as well as its relatives-- tomato, pepper, eggplant and Nicotiana sanderae (a flowering annual). The nicotine is extracted from Nicotinana tabacum. Nicotiana bigelovi is called Indian tobacco of the Southwest, and was similarly used by the Indians. Below are sources of the nicotine-producing types, BUT, PLANTanswers takes no responsibility for the health damage which might occur if you start smoking and chewing garden plants.

Nicotiana tabacum sources are:

Heirloom Garden Seeds
P O Box 138
Guerneville, CA 95446
707-887-9129

Richters
Goodwood
Ontario LOC 1A0
Canada
905-640-6677

Far North Gardens
16785 Harrison
Livonia, MI 48154
810-486-4203

Fragrant Path
P O Box 328
Fort Calhoun, NE 68023

J. L. Huson Seedsman
Star Route 2, Box 337
La Honda, CA 94020

QUESTION: I purchased an evergreen "Breath of Heaven". I do not know the Latin name of this plant. However, when we returned to Nashville (summer temps were hot and humid), and transplanted them into large pots from the 6-inch pots and placed outside, the plants did not do well. They began to wilt. I brought them inside within the first 7 to 10 days. They have since begun to turn brown and are brittle. Two of the 4 plants are slightly green, mixed w/ brown, but the stems are brittle. The potting mix is moist. Very recently, there appears to be gnats associated with these plants. Is the climate in Nashville to harsh for these plants (please tell me the correct name for these plants)? Or did I simply shock them with the immediate climate change. Are the gnats now a sign that the roots have disease? I watered them very well upon transplant and then 2 times a week afterwards. The dirt never dried out and the water draining had a funny smell and a white film on it (there are drainage stones in the bottom of these pots, from which I thought the film might be coming). I cut back on the water, waiting for the soil to dry. It had not after 2-1/2 weeks and I gave in and watered again. I am now watering about every 10 days. The rate of deterioration of these plants does not seem to be changing.

ANSWER: I am not familiar with the Breath of Heaven plant. However, from the information that I was able to find on the Internet, I suspect that they are suffering from 2 things-- too much water and too little light. I don't know that you are going to be able to save them. Also, they should remain in containers because they are not hardy below 10 degrees F and I think that you can expect lower temperatures than that in Nashville. In the larger containers, there is a tendency to over water before the plants get their roots established and I fear that most of the roots may have rotted. You can try to revive them by cutting them back severely, washing the soil from the roots and repotting them. See the information on this plant at this web site:

http://www.geocities.com/~jimclatfelter/coleonem.html

This is what it says:
Coleonema pulchrum; Pink Breath of Heaven, Family: Rutaceae, Origin: Native to South Africa

Coleonema album; White Breath of Heaven, Family: Rutaceae, Origin: Native to South Africa

Hardiness: Hardy to 10 degrees; Zones 8-9-10; Growth: Medium rate of growth to 5 feet or more; Form: Mounded shape with equal or greater spread; thin arching stems; Leaves: Tiny needle-like leaves on wispy stems; distinctive odor; Flowers: Tiny 1/4 inch pink or white flowers in the winter and spring; Exposure: Full sun to part shade; Water: Low water requirements; Soil: Any well drained soil; Fertilizer: Spring or fall in sandy soils; Prune: Prune out old canes in the spring; often sheared to keep small; Problems: Few problems

Coleonema is often sold as Diosma. Coleonema alba is smaller, though otherwise very similar, but it has white flowers. These plants are often sheared to keep them small, but it takes a month or more for them to regain a natural look after shearing. Use very sharp hedge shears if you want to keep this plant compact.

QUESTION: HELP! My butterfly bush looks terrible. Black leaves (if any). Do we hack it back and hope it returns?

ANSWER: Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) is somewhat drought tolerant. However, I suspect that yours is showing its extreme displeasure with the exceedingly hot and dry weather it has been suffering through. Scratch the bark with your fingernail and if you find green, it will probably survive (with moisture). If you do not find green, prune out all of the dead material and hope that it returns from the roots.

See this web site for more information on the butterfly bush:

http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/1079/buddleia.html

QUESTION: What is the best way to protect all of my cactus plants from winter rains. All 40 of them are in pots. Most of them need little or no water from December through March.

ANSWER: Build a small greenhouse out of PVC pipe and cover it with sheet plastic 6 mil. thick. You can get rolls of sheet plastic at most home improvement centers. Or, you can put them under the carport or garage and keep the car outside. The Houston cactus show and sale is Sept. 12-13. It a good place to get information for your area.
---Claude Townsend

QUESTION: I have caterpillars on my hackberry trees that consequently end up all over the deck. They are approximately 1 to 1 ½ inches in length and are beige/buff in color with chocolate brown ends accompanied by long fuzzy antennae. They are completely hairy in body structure. What are they and what is the best method of control? What does the butterfly or moth look like? Thank you. I have searched the Internet and found lots of information on hackberry trees but no information on these caterpillars? Are they poisonous?

ANSWER: I think that your caterpillar is the larvae of one of the tussock moths. I could not find a picture of the moth but an image of the larvae can be seen at this Clemson University web site:

http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/cesheets/forest/ce81.htm

Several of the caterpillars can inflict painful 'stings' by contact with the hairs on their body. See the information at the following 2 web sites:

http://www.ag.ohio-state.edu/~ohioline/hyg-fact/2000/2130.html

http://ctr.uvm.edu/ctr/el/el229.htm

These caterpillars can be controlled by spraying the foliage of the plants they are eating with a product containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). This is an environmentally safe product that only affects caterpillars. It can be found at most garden centers that sell pesticides.

QUESTION: I recently purchased a weeping fig tree for my home. I have it in filtered light and I repotted it 2 weeks ago. It is losing leaves. What can I do to prevent this? Also, can you recommend a plant food for this tree?

ANSWER: The weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) is very sensitive to any environmental change and will drop leaves. It will normally adjust to those changes and re-leaf quite rapidly. It does best in bright filtered light, but can adjust to darker conditions. Fertilize it with one of the soluble plant foods such as Peters House Plant Food (20-20-20) each time you water it. Use the most diluted rate that the instructions recommend for continuous feeding. Water the plant when the growing medium feels dry to the touch when you insert your index finger up to the second joint.

See the information at this PLANTanswers web site for more information on growing the weeping fig:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/greenhouse/ornamentals/ foliage/weepingfig.html

QUESTION: I have three beautiful crape myrtles in my backyard. They did well all summer but now the leaves have started to turn yellow and fall off. Is this normal for the time of year? Or do they need to be fertilized or pruned?

ANSWER: It is normal for this time of the year -- there is nothing you can do to "salvage" the situation.

QUESTION: My ficus plant has a powdery residue that feels gummy to the touch. I was wondering what this is and if it is poisonous or dangerous to domestic animals.

ANSWER: If this residue is on the top of the leaves it is the excrement (honeydew) of some sucking insect such as aphid, mealy bug or scale. You need to identify the insect so that you will know how to control it.

Aphids are small green, yellow or brown insects that are normally clustered in groups on the back of the leaves and on the stems. Mealy bugs are like puffs of cotton, normally found in the area where a leaf is attached to the branch. Scale (and this is probably what you have) will appear as oval shaped, raised areas on the stems or on top of the leaves along the veins. Aphids and mealy bugs can be controlled with most houseplant insecticides. However, scale are more difficult. Once they become adults and form the hard upper surface, topical insecticides are of little value. The plant will need to be sprayed with a good quality horticultural oil which will smother the scale. The use of a systemic insecticide, incorporated into the soil, such as DiSyston will help prevent recurrence. You can also meticulously remove them from the plant using a cotton swab (such as Q-Tip) and alcohol.

See this University of Vermont web site for more information on the culture of your plant:

http://pss.uvm.edu/pss123/folficb.html

QUESTION: I have gardenia cuttings rooting in water. I need to know where they should be planted s well as their care.

ANSWER: Gardenia aren't easy! The soil in which they grow is one of the most critical factors, and since I do not know the soil characteristics of the islands where you live, I am going to refer you to the Michigan State University article on growing gardenias that can be found at this web site:

http://www.msue.msu.edu/msue/imp/mod03/01700423.html

This is what it says: "Gardenia has very exacting growth requirements and numerous problems develop due to an unfavorable environment. Grow gardenia in sun during the winter and partial shade in summer. Use an acid soil with a pH between 5 and 6. Keep the soil moist and use an acidifying fertilizer twice monthly from midwinter to early autumn. Proper temperatures are necessary to force gardenia into bloom. No flower buds set at night when temperatures are above 65 degrees. Keep small plants growing by providing night temperatures above 65 degrees. Night temperature above 65 degrees causes a drop of buds already formed. Ideal forcing temperatures are 65 to 70 degrees during the day and 60 to 62 degrees at night. The flowering response requires 14-hour nights. The plants require high humidity. Repot gardenia in late winter or early spring.

The flower buds drop due to low humidity or a sudden environmental change. Flower buds fail to form if day temperatures are higher than 70, or night temperatures are less than 60 degrees. High soil pH causes chlorosis and lack of flower bud formation. Leaf drop, possibly delayed, can be caused by cold drafts, improper watering, excessive fertilization or several consecutive dark cloudy days.

Propagation is by cuttings of half ripened wood taken between November and March. Rooting is better with bottom heat."

QUESTION: I would like to take some geranium cuttings and prepare them for use in next year's garden. How do I do this?

ANSWER: Geraniums are propagated using tip cuttings. Follow the directions at this PLANTanswers web site:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/misc/ asexualpropagation.html

Also see the instructions given at this web site for rooting geranium cuttings:

http://www.agcom.purdue.edu/AgCom/Pubs/HO/HO-85.html